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Every year, the Brewers Association puts together their list of the top craft brewers by sales volume and every year Wisconsin-based New Glarus Brewing makes the list. This year, New Glarus came in at 16, their highest ever ranking. They came in ahead of other big fish like Great Lakes Brewing Co and Harpoon Brewing, and they only distribute in one state – Wisconsin. That’s it. It is mind-bending to think that a mom and pop brewery in southern Wisconsin can rack up massive sales numbers year after year. But when you look at the quality of the beer they put out like Moon Man (better than Spotted Cow, don’t @ me), consider that Wisconsin holds the reputation of being the drunkest state in the commonwealth, and sprinkle in a dash of time-tested supply vs demand economics, the theory begins to make sense.
So, should you venture across state lines or embark on a road trip to try out this Badger-state delicacy? The short answer: Yes. Here’s the long version.
Started back in 1993 by Deborah and Daniel Carey, New Glarus Brewing started extremely small as the local giants Miller and Pabst dominated the beer scene in the 90s. Even in the early 2000s, New Glarus struggled, pulling out of the Illinois market in 2003. The move to stay in Wisconsin and focus their distribution in-state proved to be a stroke of genius, as few brands resonate as strongly with their state as New Glarus does with Wisconsin. There’s countless stories of bordering states trying to sell their product in-bars due to the demand, only to get shut down by police. The lack of supply outside of the state has generated a certain type of mystique for New Glarus – people go crazy for this beer.
Whenever I’m back in Madison, the first beer I’m getting is always a Moon Man. And that air of exclusivity has resonated throughout residents in bordering states, creating the type of supply and demand model that companies can only dream about. They produce about 165,000 barrels a year now, with the majority being their flagships Spotted Cow and Moon Man. But they also make some great fruited ales and a stellar Oktoberfest.
But that’s only part of the New Glarus story. Nestled on a hillside about 45 minutes from the state capital of Madison, New Glarus Brewing basically is the town of New Glarus. It’s all they’re known for. Having visited their brewery hungover after a Badger football victory, sitting in their scenic beer garden was the perfect elixir to any bouts of nausea I had earlier that morning. Thanks to consistent growth in sales and production, New Glarus has been able to expand their entire brewing facility, which includes a huge outdoor taproom overlooking the Wisconsin hillside – it’s a little slice of Bavarian heaven. The place attracts about 150,000 tourists a year. And it’s in the middle of nowhere. Are people crazy to drive there just for beer? Maybe, but the beer is damn good, hard to find, and the story of Deb and Dan Carey makes it taste even better. It’s the perfect encapsulation of the Midwest and Wisconsin values, which is why so many from the Badger state are fiercely loyal to the “Only in Wisconsin” brand. And while I was only in Madison for four years, I still yearn for a New Glarus beer even among the great selection of craft beer I have in Chicago. It’s just different. Maybe it’s the old-timey website, their lack of a Twitter handle, or the iconic cow-branding. Once you’ve had a New Glarus beer, it sticks with you.
That’s my attempt at convincing you to check out New Glarus Brewing. Even if you don’t make it to their actual brewery in New Glarus, at least try to pick up a case or bribe your Wisconsin friends for a taste. I highly recommend it..
Image via New Glarus Brewing
Endorse. It’s a fun place to visit for an afternoon. And Spotted Cow is wildly overrated.
So glad I’m not the only one who doesn’t get the Spotted Cow hype. Maybe since I haven’t had it fresh but it’s nothing special
Big fan of Two Women. And the beer.
Can confirm (currently living in Madison). Also agree on the moon man > spotted cow take
Every time my roommate goes back home she brings me back Moon Man and every time I love her more and more
As an IL resident who spends a lot of time in WI, I think New Glarus mostly benefits from the “can’t get it” mystique. I’ll take something from Three Floyd’s or Lagunitas over New Glarus most of the time.
Also, an Illinois resident and even Three Floyds has that mystique. In Chicago where Three Floyds is easy to get, people like it. In the far out suburbs where it’s hard to get people go crazy for it. Most stores impose limits on how much you can buy and still sell out of it.
Had to watch my Wildcats bring home the championship in a hotel in La Crosse, Wisconsin last night… only saving grace was the variety pack of New Glarus I snagged earlier that evening. This was a timely article, and I fully endorse this take
Honestly every time I have a layover in WI I make the hotel guy take me to the liquor store to get a couple sixers to bring home.
Former wisco resident checking in- I’ll go against the grain here and say I like Spotted Cow over Moon Man. Spotted Cow’s appeal is that it’s a simple, delicious farmhouse ale that’s not trying to be more than that. There are lots of great IPAs out there, many of which I’d rank higher than Moon Man. What Spotted Cow does best is being an easy, no nonsense light beer that goes great with a tail gate.
Ill occasionally drive over the MN/Wi border to grab a few packs